For me, yum cha (also known as Chinese breakfast, or “dim sum” to Americans) has always been about sharing, and the bigger the group the better. The more people at the table, the more plates you’re able to try and taste. There’s a theatre and extravagance in the experience and I remember being excited as a kid when each trolley came around bearing tasty morsels and as they laid out all the different dishes, all colourful and glistening and delicious, the meal would usually end in complete carb-loaded bliss. I mostly associate yum cha with special occasions as that would be when we would get a large group of friends and family together to celebrate a birthday or milestone. Generally these were happy times, thrown in with the occasional
“family duty” moments.
These days are not so different, it’s still about sharing and catching up with people, though perhaps now I’m more inclined to just go on whim and as a treat rather than any specific celebration. That said, while I feel the gastronomy revolution of recent years has provided a gamut of options for eating out, yum cha still holds a special place in my tummy and is a perfectly good standby for special occasions, especially lunch or daytime affairs – perfect for family time with kids or those not up for late night drinking, including myself (haha). There’s many yum cha places around, but having moved to the western suburbs, my favourite go-to restaurant is the Parramatta Phoenix, located in Parramatta’s behemoth shopping precinct, Westfields.
I feel like it wasn’t that long ago that this Phoenix Group restaurant was originally the old Borders bookstore before they went into receivership. Maybe only 5 years ago? Maybe 10? It’s a big space, encompassing three floors (just like the bookstore), though during yum cha I’ve only seen them use the main floor. The main space feels modern and full of natural light from its floor-to-ceiling windows, I’d say that even now despite maybe some general wear and tear, the renovation from bookstore to restaurant still holds up. But what we’re really here for is the food no?
Personally, I find a lot of yum cha places in Sydney can be a bit hit-or-miss. Growing up in the Asian mecca that is Cabramatta, or little Chinatown as it was known when I was growing up (amongst other less favourable titles), tucked away in Sydney’s southwest, I was always spoilt for choice when it came to good Asian food, especially yum cha. The town had at least 4 well-known Chinese restaurants that did yum cha lunch, each with their own delicious specialties and had booming trade on weekends. So it came as a surprise whenever I went to places outside of Cabramatta to find that not all yum chas are alike. Apart from the glitzy Chinese restaurants of actual Chinatown (Haymarket) such as Marigold, East Ocean and Golden Century (the Chinese restaurants of the 80s? Anyone feel me?) which were very delicious but also very fancy with prices to match, I generally found most other places to be almost sub-par compared to the Asian cuisine of my spoilt childhood. Or maybe just call me picky!
At any rate, I certainly find that as I get older, I’m willing to travel for taste and flavour. And the Phoenix Group certainly know about just that. My first Phoenix experience was their Sky Phoenix restaurant in Pitt Street mall when I was a uni student. Delicious, though again like many of the big city restaurants, pricey. I was excited when they announced they would open in Parramatta and wasn’t disappointed. This particular restaurant has been my yum cha of choice now for the last four or so years, based on consistent flavour, quality, and service (which can be oh-such an issue sometimes). Location is a bonus too as the Westfields is right across from major hub, Parramatta Station. And did I mention consistent? Consistency is important, and where some places have failed me – can’t be going once to get my cheung fun fix satisfied only to be disappointed the next time!
So there we go – my choice for yum cha out West? Look no further. My ultimate favourite dishes can be seen above including the turnip cake and all the variations of cheung fun, a steamed or pan-fried rice noodle with fillings. I also love bible tripe, sticky rice wrapped in lotus leaves (lo mai gai), crispy taro dumplings (wu gock), salt and pepper whitebait (oh lord, crispy salty deliciousness…), fried football mystery meat dumplings (hom sui gok)… ah I could go on and on. And since there’s usually no seating time limit, going on and on certainly is an option, and easy enough done amongst the chatter of friends… at least until they switch over for the dinner service!
Now, pass the har gau please.
x
A.
Parramatta Phoenix
Level 4, Westfield Parramatta (opp. Parramatta Station)
parramattaphoenix.com.au